Top 5 Italian Beefs in Chicago (Suburbs)

Johnnie's

1. Johnnie’s

7500 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park; 708-452-6000 (second location at 1935 S. Arlington Heights Rd, Arlington Heights; 847-357-8100)

$4.32 for sandwich + .37 for sweet peppers + .37 for hot peppers

Total: $5.06

Bread: Gonnella

Opened in 1961, the legendary store in Elmwood Park typically has a line snaking out the side, especially in the summertime. On a chilly weekday, I walked right in and got the usual, with a small lemon ice (a must). The thing Johnnie’s does that no one else bothers to is to beautifully space the mixture of sweet – finely-chopped green bell peppers and onions sprinkled with oregano – evenly, throughout the sandwich; a hot giardiniera of carrots, sport peppers and cauliflower is arranged over a messy, juicy, thinly-sliced, perfectly seasoned beef sandwich, containing that perfect ratio of bread to beef to peppers. You know you’re in for a pleasurable experience when you unwrap your meaty gift on the counter, and the fat/grease soaks through the paper (see picture, above). But that’s what the Italian lemonade (ice) is for – the sweet creaminess against the fatty richness and mild heat is one of life’s great culinary combos.

 

2. The Original Mr. Beef

12320 W. 143rd Street, Homer Glen; 708-645-0456

Mr. Beef Homer Glen

$6.50 for sandwich + .40 for sweet peppers + .40 for hot peppers

Total: $7.30

Bread: Liborio Bread (River Grove)

In a way, the Mr. Beef saga in Chicago is like the bizarre twists and turns of the Mueller clan in Austin. According the owner Carl Bonavolanto III, Mr. Beef on Orleans opens in 1963 by his dad, Carl Bonavolanto Jr. and Tony Ozzauto. Years pass, they sell out in 1980, but then success ensues and a cult following is born. Things change on Orleans, and Carl Bonavolanto III ends up in Will County of all places, planting his flag with the (alleged) original recipe. A great story is one thing, but all I care about is taste, and The Original Mr. Beef delivers on all fronts: paper-thin beef – trimmed of all fat and gristle – suffused with the richness of its own fat from the drippings that are loaded with garlic; an amalgam of serrano peppers, crunchy celery and black pepper in a giardiniera that offers the slightest amount of heat, pairing extremely well with the surprising addition of red or yellow bell peppers that are actually sweet. Stuffed into sturdy, flavorful Liborio loaves that no one else in the region seems to use, it’s a juicy, hot, beefy mess that I couldn’t put down, even after I had already nibbled on three beefs previously that day. For the record, the difference between my #1 and #2 here is slim. UPDATE: Christopher Zucchero, the owner of Mr. Beef on Orleans, wrote to me yesterday, setting the record straight: “The Carl you mentioned, who owns the one in Homer Glen, used to work here when my father purchased it from his uncle, Tony Ouzzato.  It was actually called the Cozy Kitchen and it really was owned by the Scala family of the famed Scala Meat Packing Co.  The Scala’s are cousins to Carl B. and Tony O. When my father purchased it, he chucked their recipe, began using his own, and changed the name. That was in 1977 not 1980. Once again no familial connection.  Mr Beef on Orleans was founded by my father, Joe Zucchero.  It’s a completely different restaurant.”

UPDATE #2, AS OF 3/13, 4 p.m.: Earlier today, Nancy Gonzalez, a manager who has worked at the Original Mr. Beef for 18 years, sent me this note, in response to accusations made by Mr. Zucchero previously: “It is mind boggling to me that Christopher Zucchero spews such lies or was somehow grossly misinformed! Carl worked there with his father and uncle from age 9, that’s 49 years ago…1966, 3 years after they opened. & it was called Mr. Beef, not Cozy Kitchen…..never heard of Cozy Kitchen.” 

 

3. Frangella

11925 S. 80th Avenue, Palos Park; 708-448-2598

Frangella

$5.99 for sandwich, includes peppers

Bread: D’Amato’s

This to-go only deli is stocked with a great selection of Italian groceries and a nice amount of homemade dishes in the case, such as arancini, sauces and pasta dishes. It’s easy to pick up dinner from here. The long deli case features the usual Boar’s Head products, but they also do Italian beef everyday. The D’Amato’s bread (among my favorites in town) holds up really well to the jus, and the giardiniera is fantastic: crunchy knobs of cauliflower and jalapeños mixed with habaneros and olives, swimming in oil and oregano; a few “sweet” green peppers are tucked into one side of the sandwich, ensuring a small taste with each bite. The beef is roasted about two hours in garlic and oregano, then cooled overnight. Sliced to-order, it’s reddish-pink inside, weighed to about a third of a pound, then bathed in the extra hot jus for only about a minute, which finishes cooking it. Their theory is by not letting the beef sit in the jus all day, it doesn’t get overcooked. I couldn’t figure out how it was possible that it would retain so much flavor, but I guess if you cook the right piece of meat the proper way, slice it the proper thickness and make a jus that has the requisite seasoning, a brief bath in that richness (combined with the flavors absorbed into the bread) beats a long steep in mediocrity.

 

4. Freddy’s Pizza

1600 S. 61st Ave., Cicero; 708-863-9289

Freddy's

$5.99 for sandwich + .50 for sweet peppers + .35 for hot peppers

Total: $6.84

Bread: Turano

Old. School. Freddy’s is one of those places that feels frozen in time. Not far from where Capone used to have a house in Cicero, the neighborhood has turned more Hispanic than Italian, but Freddy’s endures. The daily selection in the front case is tempting beyond belief. The day I went, they were trying out a new baked pasta dish called Timballo di Pasta, which we couldn’t stop raving about. The beef here is delicious. Covered with two strips of green pepper and two strips of red (that are actually sweet) their giardiniera is the best in Chicago: homemade each day with olives (!), carrots, sport peppers and celery, it adds just the right note of crunch and heat to this juicy, wet creation. While we thought it was juicy on the outside, it wasn’t totally soggy on the inside, which made it possible to pick up and set down without it falling apart. Frankly, I was surprised, because I’m not a huge Turano fan.

 

5. Scatchell’s Beef & Pizza

4700 W. Cermak Rd., Cicero; 708-656-0911

Scatchell's

$5.35 for sandwich + .50 for sweet and hot peppers

Total: $5.85

Bread: Gonnella

Stubby and Eddie Scatchell opened their eponymous joint in Cicero in 1953. The neighborhood has changed quite a bit – there are a lot more taquerias and Mexican grocery stores today – but the basic sandwich hasn’t changed much. First off, it’s huge; mine was stuffed with finely shredded/shaved beef that was easy to chew, along with three green peppers and a nice hot mix of celery and red chili flakes to give each bite some crunch. The bread was thoroughly soaked, and my friend remarked that once you pick this sandwich up, you’re committed, because once you set it down, it will disintegrate. We thought the beef lacked the umami-like savoriness of a Buona, but this baby, consumed at the counter facing Cermak, was a joy to eat. (Side note: the lemon ice is smooth and creamy, like Johnnie’s, but not quite as good).

 

Honorable Mention:

Portillo’s

33 locations in Illinois

Portillo's

Menu they hand you while waiting in line and online lists sandwich as $5.45, but they’ve raised the price to $5.69 for a sandwich, probably as a result of their being sold to an investment group recently +.60 sweet peppers + .60 hot peppers

Total: $6.89

Bread: Turano

With 38 locations – 33 of which are in Illinois – Portillo’s has become more of a theme park than a true “joint.” Each location has a theme, such as “30s Prohibition” or “50s and 60s Retro” and I couldn’t help but feel, as I waited in a snaking line, that I was in a sort of Disneyland for people who wanted to eat Chicago-style food, but didn’t actually want to travel anywhere in Chicago that wasn’t more than 10 minutes from their hotel. They use one of my least favorite breads, but they certainly know how to make beef. The texture was nice and soft, and the “juicy” lived up to its billing – my sandwich was totally wet, allowing me to taste the oregano in every soggy bite. There were two huge slices of green pepper, steamed like most and not worth the .60 upcharge, but the giardiniera of carrots, sport peppers, celery and cauliflower saved it. If you don’t have a car and it’s the most convenient to you in Batavia, Bolingbrook, Crystal Lake, etc., then this is a fine sandwich, but not in my top 10 overall. (Side note: don’t waste the calories on the overrated chocolate cake; better to get it mixed into a shake).

42 Comments

  1. Lenny

    March 11, 2015 at 12:18 pm

    I value Steve’s picks but remember this is one persons view. I have my opinions on top 5 as well, it’s all subjective to ones palet.

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 11, 2015 at 12:44 pm

      You hit the nail on the head!

    • M.Card

      March 24, 2015 at 3:18 pm

      To be fair there would need to be multiple tasters and a voting system. I thought Mamma D’s beef on our South-West side would of made the top 5. They have such a great, unique flavor. Mr. Beef’s to good too, but I really enjoyed Mamma D’s and their 9 in. option.

      • M.Card

        March 24, 2015 at 3:20 pm

        P.S. Thanks for providing such an extensive list of Beef places. This makes for a great reference whenever we visit other parts of the Chicago area.

        • Steve Dolinsky

          March 24, 2015 at 3:47 pm

          Happy to have done this service. Enjoy ‘em sweet, hot and wet.

  2. john Washington

    March 11, 2015 at 12:52 pm

    Jay’s Italian beefs on Narragansett got to be in the Top 5 because of authenticity.

    • TJ Wilcox

      March 14, 2015 at 11:19 am

      I actually put Jay’s ahead of Johnnies, any day of the week.

  3. Roger

    March 11, 2015 at 4:45 pm

    There Has Never Been A Doubt That Johnnie’s Would Be Number 1 In The Suburbs….Used To Live In Elmwood Park And Used To Go There At Least Twice A Week

  4. Scott paklaian

    March 11, 2015 at 4:54 pm

    I miss my Chicago Italian beef and sausage combo from Portillos and Jays beef. They need to make a Chicago style beef in New York.

  5. David V

    March 11, 2015 at 5:22 pm

    no disrespect,but don’t most places just reheat from a food service industry bucket? I’m not ‘constantly’ having them, but the reason I declined from ordering these over the last several years, is for the most part they all taste similar; thin sliced beef of varying degrees of done-ness, having spent far too long in a bouillon broth.
    Anyone doing a ‘scratch’ version ?

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 11, 2015 at 6:00 pm

      No, most of the better places mentioned here don’t reheat from a bucket. They roast, cool, slice and season themselves.

    • Allan

      May 17, 2015 at 1:32 am

      Not quite an Italian beef issue, but the fries at Scatchell’s make me hesitant to want to go back there again, and tasted as if they were frozen and heated up out of a bag. Makes me reluctant to go back sadly, though the Italian beef sandwich I had wasn’t bad but not my favorite one. Would rather go to Johnnie’s. Totally hear you on that comment, David.

      • Steve Dolinsky

        May 17, 2015 at 4:12 pm

        Just fyi, almost every beef joint in Chicago – including Johnnie’s – uses frozen fries.

  6. Molly

    March 11, 2015 at 6:49 pm

    Steve I can’t believe Buona Beef doesn’t get a mention. Am I missing something??

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 12, 2015 at 8:53 am

      Please ready my blog post from Tuesday.

  7. Timothy DeLaRosa

    March 11, 2015 at 7:34 pm

    Great choices! I’ve been to most of the locations, grew up half a block from Freddy’s even! If ever in the western burbs near Hillside, I recommend giving Chickie’s Beef a try…
    (Order a cannoli milkshake for dessert!)

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 12, 2015 at 8:52 am

      Please read my blog post from Tuesday. Did Chickie’s already.

  8. Maryann

    March 11, 2015 at 8:37 pm

    please try mr beef on harlemjust past Irving road in Chicago very good and over loaded with flavor and beef

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 12, 2015 at 8:51 am

      Please read my blog today.

  9. Ron Newkirk

    March 11, 2015 at 9:14 pm

    I have had my share of Italian Beef sandwiches one of my favorites is a place in South Chicago Heights called Superstar and Gyros, excellent Beef sandwich!

  10. Dale

    March 12, 2015 at 5:07 pm

    Hey Steve,

    Have you tried Paradise Pup in Des Plaines? Not only the best burger in the suburbs but a really good beef as well.

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 12, 2015 at 7:06 pm

      Of course. Great fries too, but not a top 20 beef.

  11. Wolferino

    March 12, 2015 at 6:27 pm

    I haven’t tried two of the top five here, but I definitely agree on one thing. I laugh whenever people on Facebook name Portillo’s as having the best beef sandwich in Chicago. Overrated and overpriced!

  12. Maggi

    March 12, 2015 at 7:25 pm

    Johnnie’s lost me many years ago…..the sandwich got smaller, the prices got higher, they don’t provide as much meat….all the peeps standing in line (the line used to be out the door and around the building) never had a real Johnnie’s beef….so sad:(

  13. Tpn

    March 12, 2015 at 8:37 pm

    Johnnies is the best for city and suburbs. Little joes in countryside good too.

  14. Alex Bartkus

    March 12, 2015 at 10:26 pm

    Little Joe’s in Countryside at Plainfield & LaGrange Rd. Italian Beef with the best giardiniera and fries in Chicagoland for the main entree and a cheese dog for dessert all washed down with a Radler!

  15. Chris

    March 13, 2015 at 7:37 am

    Saw your top 5 and went to Frangella that afternoon. I’m shocked it made the list. I was the only customer and the kid behind counter seemed confused. Ordered wet, with hot peppers and sweet. Beef was really good, tender and flavorful as well as the giardiniera. But my sandwich was dipped on the bottom, thin side of the bread. So it disintegrated while the think top was tough and almost stale. The sweet peppers were pretty close to raw, which had an unnerving taste/sensation. I wished I had a fork just to eat the beef.
    You keep mentioning consistency as a big part of your ranking. I figured the day they made your top 5 Frangella would have been awesome, I figured wrong.

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 13, 2015 at 8:34 am

      This truly saddens me, and bums me out. I will forward your note to them. Absolutely right, consistency is key.

  16. Art Fumarolo

    March 13, 2015 at 11:32 pm

    I enjoyed your Italian Beef segment tonight. In checking your 31 list I was thinking I’d find Beef Villa in Elgin somewhere on it. I appreciate that you couldn’t go to every beef stand in Chicagoland and perhaps Elgin is considered too far out to be a suburb. Beef Villa is the best out our way.

  17. Pyllis

    March 14, 2015 at 8:13 am

    You can’t beat ” Pete’s Hot dog place on Roosevelt Rd. & Ridgeland Av. for their Beef Sandwiches. Huge & delicious !

  18. Chris K

    March 14, 2015 at 6:18 pm

    remember when beef joints were as common as burrito joints are today?????

  19. Robert

    March 14, 2015 at 11:11 pm

    Freddie’s is on 16th, not 61st, in Cicero. There is no 61st in Cicero.

    • Steve Dolinsky

      March 15, 2015 at 6:56 am

      It’s on 61st Ave, JUST SOUTH of 16th St. Please look at a map.

  20. maggy

    March 15, 2015 at 10:50 am

    Johnnies is way over priced, my favorite use to be Michael’s on North Ave. in Oak Park, but now it’s Big Guy Sausage on Roosevelt, the best!!!

  21. Colleen Simon

    March 15, 2015 at 3:03 pm

    Rich’s Pizza Joint in Tinley Park has a very good Italian Beef sandwich and Italian Beef pizza

  22. Hday

    April 30, 2015 at 2:21 pm

    Johnnie’s simply makes the best Italian beef sandwich ever made, anywhere, by anyone, hands down. The others are imposters.

  23. nick sadler

    May 30, 2015 at 1:48 pm

    Finally someone gives the original Mr. Beef in Homer Glen some well deserved recognition! Tied with johnnie’s for best italian beef in my opinion.

  24. weedy

    August 19, 2015 at 4:42 pm

    It’s funny how it says Chicago’s type 5 beefs..
    When all the locations on here are not even in chicago lol..
    U all some fools lmao

    • Steve Dolinsky

      August 19, 2015 at 9:58 pm

      You know what’s even funnier? The fact that the post says “Top 5 Italian Beefs in Chicago (Suburbs)” and you totally missed that. lmao too.

  25. Jimmy EKinkadejr

    October 31, 2015 at 12:56 am

    Enjoy all the findings of the best pizzas food Exedra that you come up with is me challenge to go to these places and check them out and find out myself all good Dr thank you for your for you time enough for us to do this for the Chicago Public

  26. Scott Zukowski

    June 7, 2016 at 2:05 am

    Thanks for the GREAT article/reviews. Having grown up in Chicago for 45 years (now a transplant to Arizona and missing Chicago food BAD),I both enjoyed your article for giving me fond memories of back home,but in how I fully agreed 100% with all your rankings. You also did an awesome job in explaining/writing why you made your decision for each place/joint. Keep up the great work!

  27. Jack Patti

    August 24, 2016 at 11:56 am

    The Rosatis in Lakemoor is the best

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