Savoring Stockholm

October 4

Growing up in Minnesota (first St. Cloud, then Minneapolis), I certainly encountered my share of Swedish culture.  Not many Jewish kids are exposed to lutefisk, hardtack and matjes herring in their formative years, but I've already been down that path.  I recall as many Swensons, Johannsens and Jorgensons in high school as I did the names of the starting lineup for the '87 and '90 Twins.  So it was with some excitement - and a sense of familiarity - that I hit Stockholm for the weekend, to do a little bit of eating (well, actually, quite a bit of eating) and make my way around town.

Having already conquered the multiple permutations of creamed and pickled herring at Chicago institutions such as Tre Kronor, and recalling the elaborate tasting menu at the late, lamented Aquavit in Minneapolis (the New York original is still around, and there's one in Stockholm now), I felt like I had a handle on what the Swedes were all about:  preservation.  They smoke, they pickle and they dry food; not because it's fashionable, but rather, out of the ancient necessity to preserve what they harvested and caught in their very short growing season. Herring is everywhere here, kind of like hot dogs are in Chicago.  From the casual cafe to the upscale temples of haute cuisine, the Swedes can't get enough of it.

 
Herring at Mathias Dahlgren Matbaren    One of the many harbors in Stockholm   Cardamom and cinnamon rolls

 There are certain ingredients you see frequently here: juniper berries, mushrooms, dill, aquavit.  It all goes back to thoe principles of pickling, drying and preserving. The Swedes, while certainly proud to offer wines from all over the world, seem more intent on enjoying beer with their food.  I had an astoundingly good blond ale from th Slottskallans brewery, which I'm tempted to buy and pack in my suitcase.  It matched so perfectly with that herring in the picture, above left. 

You know how certain chefs love to brag about their farmers and how much they use local greens?  Some of them even go so far as to maintain herb gardens on site.  I met a chef who takes this approach a few steps further.  Magnus Ek, who runs Oaxen Krog on the island of Oaxen, about an hour's drive from Stockholm, spends his downtime actually foraging around the archipelago, seeking out wild herbs, juniper, sticks, leaves, just about anything that he can use to integrate into his multi-course tasting menus.  Like Grant Achatz and Wylie Dufresne and a few other talented U.S. chefs, Ek employs scents, smoke and a little bit of science (not that much, actually) to expose his guests to a myriad of flavors, textures and aromas.  As good as dinner was, I was just as happy to eat some ox meat and potato stew with garden tomatoes and parsley, in a shallow bowl, while looking at the endless water and islands that led to the Baltic Sea.

 
Oaxen Krog Restaurant                                         A picnic on Oaxen Island

One of the hardest things about visiting another city with a food market is that it only reminds me how much further Chicago needs to go to establish a yearround food hall.  I know there are a lot of talented people talking about doing just such a market, and in fact, there is an indoor French Market opening near Randolph and Canal in a month or so, but in order to be taken seriously on the international food scene, Chicago could learn a few things from Stockholm's Saluhall Market.  Next to the butcher stall, a giant glass case with dry-aged meat (all grass-fed of course); four or five small restaurants where you could sit and grab a quick, high-quality meal; row-upon-row of gravlax, caviar, herring and Swedish lobster.  I wanted to taste it all!  The crusty breads, the salmon salads, prepared sandwiches and schnitzels.  I could have spent hours there, but sadly, it was just a few minutes, due to my schedule.  Note to the Daley Administration: after you check out the Ferry Building Market in San Francisco, please take a close look at the Saluhall in Stockholm, (and maybe the Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne) before you sanction anything in our city.


Saluhall Market                                        Gravlax as far as the eye can see        One of several restaurants on site