New York, New York

July 8

Just got back from New York yesterday (nothing like spending two hours on the tarmac at LaGuardia) and am still thinking about the fabulous lunch at The Modern, where I was swaddled in the luxe, refined and ultimately serene environment, thanks in part to Wine Director (and former Chicagoan) Belinda Chang.  I arrived completely sweating, both from a brief walk and the ridiculous humidity, and dropped my bags at the host stand, since I would have to run to the airport right after lunch.  The staff was already humming along, waiting for the lunch rush (I'm always surprised at how quiet it is in New York's power temples at 12 p.m.; they don't really fire things up until 12:30 or 1 p.m.).  Belinda whisked me upstairs to say hello to owner Danny Meyer, who was watching his company's annual Barista Olympics.  They foster competition, teamwork and ultimately, produce a better coffee product companywide.  I headed back downstairs, to my quiet little two-top in the corner, against the window, where I could gaze at some of the dynamic, colorful sculptures in the garden adjacent to 54th Street.

Belinda started me off with some Alsatian gewurtztraminer, she said the acidity would help cool me off; it did.  A three-course prix fixe lunch plus dessert runs $58.  I figured I'd have enough time to try it all without rushing.  Naturally, since this is a Danny Meyer operation, the service staff is always on your side, and I knew that one brief mention of my timing would be subsequently passed along to the entire staff, so I was in great shape.  Some highlights: a cherry consomme with bits of gooseberry that was both refreshing and substantial, paired with an off-dry sauvignon blanc from Australia, it was the ultimate first course.  Pan-seared dorade with pickled fennel and its fronds, along with an acidic, chunky green salsa verde made for a study in delicious contrasts; Belinda offered both a white burgundy as well as a pinot, just to see which one worked better with the fish.  Finally, a moist pork chop, sliced into thick slabs and plated next to grilled baby eggplants, offered an earthy, hearty meal, worthy of a Midtown media mogul, aided in part by a killer Oregon pinot that matched up perfectly with toasty, juicy pork.

Dessert was just, well... oh Christ, here's the picture I took: 

Let's see: mignardises, a fig tart with lemon confit, a vanilla-coffee sundae, more small bites with green tea, raspberry tuiles, a fortified port, some non-botrytus tokaji... I just with I would have planned for a nap after lunch.  I used to have a thing for the Belinda who fronted the Go-Go's.  Screw that, Belinda Chang is my new "it" girl.

I also walked over to Bryant Park, where Tom Colicchio has a 'Witch Craft stand, offering great soups (yummy gazpacho) and fancy sandwiches; One night, I took a stroll over to Times Square, where the pedestrian-friendly "mall" has now been overrun with outdoor patio chairs and tourists.  It's actually kind of eerie: traffic moves in only one direction, on one side of the giant spectacle, and a new set of back-lit stairs serve as both a shelter to the new Ticket Discount booth but also as a way for people to pull up a seat and just stare out into the busy of lighted humanity.  It's "Blade Runner" without the rain.

I also headed up North, to Mt. Kisco, about an hour train ride from Grand Central, where I met my friend Alan Richman for a unique dinner that featured three outstanding wines.  More on that dinner in a day or so, after I've gone over my notes.  I'll give you a little view of their basement cellar, however, which is an oenophile's fantasy: