November 2008
A Civilized (Vegetarian) Brunch Enter Green Zebra. For the past few years, its been a solid veggie-friendly option (not necessarily vegan) offering high-end presentation and top-quality produce, along with creative flair. Just when some of us were getting tired of the seitan-as-usual Blind Faith Cafe and tofu-overload at The Chicago Diner, Green Zebra offered elegant, clean lines, a zen-like dining room and a killer wine list with food-friendly, affordable choices. I mean, honestly, would you ever see a hearty bowl of grits, like the ones pictured above, swaddled with braised greens, smoked mushrooms and a poached egg? One of my favorite dishes began with a cheesy popover, split in two, then in between the halves, a mound of roasted squash, more of those tender 'shrooms and generous dollops of goat cheese. The chef is from Wisconsin, and not surprisingly, cheese, ultra-thin German pancakes (albeit embedded with huckleberries) and super-sweet kringles laced with a sugary frosting make frequent appearances on her menu. Not only were we able to enjoy all of these dishes, but we did so while being able to maintain a conversation, a fact not lost on our group. We never felt guilty for lingering, because instead of watching 10 or 20 hungry souls wait impatiently while we sipped our bloody marys, there were plenty of tables open. The genial pace and laidback servers, combined with the alternative 80s mix of Talk Talk and The Smiths just made us feel like we were hanging out in someone's (very cool) dining room on a lazy Sunday morning. I think next time, I'll bring my New York Times, and really kick back, ordering another sticky pecan bun with my coffee, and just let the morning unfold. German pancake with huckleberries frosting-covered kringles pecan sticky bun.....yum!
November 8
Chicago's brunch scene has been dominated for so long by just a few players. Drive down the 1400 block of North Milwaukee Avenue (or near the corner of Roosevelt and Wabash) on a Saturday or Sunday morning, and you'll see the throngs waiting outside The Bongo Room for a chance to taste their marscarpone-laced pancakes or thick-cut French toast. Another dominant brunch player has been Orange, attracting the late a.m. adventurous with its "frushi," a hybrid of fresh fruit formed into maki rolls or coaxed into nigiri forms on top of rice. Although ever since they were sold to new owners a few years ago, I think the quality has suffered somewhat. More recently, places like Yolk and Meli Cafe & Juice Bar have opened downtown, proving the Greek-owned coffeeshop had moved beyond the mediocre and ascended to delicate crepes, pancakes and creative egg dishes. My only complaint about these two new options is, they've become so popular in such a short time, that the crowds are simply overwhelming on the weekends, and having a civilzed conversation is as hard as finding a decent (free) parking space.
