Chicago’s Best Pho, #12 – #31

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In yesterday’s post, my Pho Conspirator and I laid out our methodology and procedure for finding the best bowls in Chicago. Today we start sharing the results. If you haven’t already, read yesterday’s story for background; it will explain a lot. We tried to stick to places where pho plays a big part of the menu, or at least the restaurant attempts to offer it as a meal in and of itself. Again, a few extra points if they include culantro (saw tooth leaf) on the condiment plate and bonus points for aromatic broth (served hot) with tender, thinly-sliced eye of round and slightly fatty brisket. We never added any garnishes to the bowls. That said, on occasion, we would create a “yin yang” dish (my term for the half sriracha-half hoisin sauce combo) in case we wanted to dip any beef into it once pulled from the broth. Every order was the same: pho dac biet (house special) which typically comes with the full arsenal – eye of round, brisket, meatball, tripe, tendon, etc.

Without further adieu then, here are our picks for #12 – #31, including price, condiments and a few notes from each tasting:

#31
Pho 55 Vietnamese Noodle and Grill
1611 E. 55th St.; 773-363-1515
Price: $9 (one size only)
Condiments: Thai basil, white onions, bean sprouts (broken up), jalapeño slices, a lime wedge

pho-55

The only pho in Hyde Park, it’s owned by Thais, who run a Thai restaurant next door; they also offer a chicken and a vegetarian pho. The yin-yang of hoisin-sriracha is served along with the condiment plate. Broth had very little beefy flavor, and the bowl included shards of lettuce (?), basil, sprouts and cilantro. Noodles were too soft, not enough bite; only beef in the bowl was eye of round. Our server seemed annoyed, even though we were the only table in the restaurant.

 

#30
Dong Ky
4877 N. Broadway; 773-989-5579
Price: $7.95
Condiments: Thai basil, tiny jalapeños and bean sprouts; lime

dong-ky

With a TV blaring Vietnamese pop music acts all day, the customers are, with few exceptions, all ex-pats. Large condiment trays with soy, fish sauce, etc. adorn each table. On top of the bowl, sliced red onions, a rarity, with cilantro and scallion; the broth is warm-ish with tough eye of round and brisket in a watery broth.

 

#29
Saigon Sisters
567 W. Lake St.; 312-496-0090
Price: $9.50 at lunch; $17 at dinner (incl. oxtail and wagyu)
Condiments: served in plastic baggies, 1 leaf Thai basil, 1 broken stem of culantro and tiny, broken bean sprouts

saigon-sisters

Aroma is middling, no strong smell or aromatics. Not only was the bowl not hot enough, a cold draft each time door opened cooled it within a minute. Thick, unwieldy pieces of roast beef across the top, with a smattering of scallion; meatball was just o.k.; broth not beefy. Clean, modern space but server was way too overbearing, suggesting if we really wanted to do it right, we’d add sambal and hoisin to broth. If you want to see more from this particular tasting, we did a Facebook Live post during the visit:

 

#28
Nha Hang Viet Nam (also known as Restaurant Vietnam on menu)
1032 W. Argyle St.; 773-878-8895}
Price: $8.95 and $9.95
Condiments: Thai basil, culantro, bean sprouts, jalapeño, lime

nha-hang-vietnam

Bowls arrive with lots of cilantro and onion across the top. Oddly dry eye of round and the meatball had a very odd taste that actually forced me to spit it out. Broth was tepid at best. Super-friendly owner, but got the sense he was all by himself. Saw him wait tables then go back and plate dishes and pho in the kitchen.

 

#27
LC Pho
2739 W. Lawrence Ave.; 872-208-7606
Price: $9 and $10
Condiments: Thai basil, jalapeño, limes, bean sprouts

lc-pho

We learned that the chef from LC had left recently to open up LD Pho, just a few blocks away. His absence shows. Broth smelled o.k. but not wonderful; was more spice-forward. Temperature good but not stellar. Topped off with a lot of cilantro and white onion. Real problems lie in the bowl: eye of round was too tough and so were noodles, oddly enough. Meatballs pretty good but broth – even tough nicely strained – lacking beefy flavor (though somewhat aromatic). One of the smallest menus we encountered.

 

#26
Pasteur
5525 N. Broadway; 773-728-4800
Price: $7 and $14 (+ $2 for meatballs)
Condiments: Thai basil (not so fresh), cilantro, lime, jalapeño, bean sprouts; ”yin-yang” dish of hoisin-sambal
pasteur
With giant oil paintings, wicker chairs and steel-framed mirrors, it was definitely the nicest dining room on the Crawl. Our deep bowl arrived not only with plenty of cilantro, scallion and onion scattered across the top, but also some fried garlic and black pepper. Too bad it was barely warm, and only contained sirloin and a $2 meatball surcharge. The basil had seen better days as well. When it’s not steaming, it’s hard to discern much aroma.

 

#25
Saigon Bistro
6244 N. California; 773-564-9336
Price: $9.95
Condiments: culantro, lime, Thai basil, bean sprouts

saigon-bistro

Also known as “Saigon Bistro Crawfish,” the restaurant seems to have undergone an identity shift since I named it to my Top 5 Pho a couple of years ago (they still tout this on their website). Not anymore, I’m afraid. They now really push the large, Cajun-influenced menu with crawfish, blue crabs (and apparently karaoke, judging by the huge speaker system and disco light in the corner). Served in an oddly modern but not very functional triangular bowl, it’s aromatic but light on the beef. While we liked the eye of round just fine, with a decent aromatic broth, the soup was barely warm and not nearly as beefy as it should have been.

 

#24
Cafe Hoang
1020 W. Argyle St.; 773-878-9943
232 W. Cermak Rd.; 312-674-9610
Price: $8.95
Condiments: culantro, Thai basil, bean sprouts, lime

cafe-hoang

While most of the meats tasted fine – a little toothsome here, a little tender there – the brisket was remarkably tender, despite appearing to have been sliced with the grain. Springy meatballs (embedded with tiny shards of tendon) made for good, beefy chewing. The broth was pleasant but certainly not remarkable, and like too many other bowls, simply not hot; it came doused in a shower of black pepper as well.

 

#23
Pho 777
1065 W. Argyle St.; 773-561-9909
Price: $9.50
Condiments: bean sprouts, jalapeño, Thai basil (nice and big), lime

777

This Argyle Street stalwart (another one of my previous Top 5s from two years ago) has slipped a bit. The bowl came out with a strong, beefy smell, but lacked almost any discernable aromatics. In fact, it was far too dark, to the point of being off-putting and wasn’t nearly hot enough. Despite having a lot of meaty cuts buried within the bowl, too many of them were sliced too thick. The meatballs were particularly off-putting, tasting more like fish than beef. It didn’t help that our server was grumpy, unprofessional and clearly annoyed we were sharing a bowl, but not sure I need to go back anymore. The space is dated, dingy and relies on a big menu with a lot of traditional dishes.

 

#22
Pho 888
1137 W. Argyle St.; 773-907-8838
Price: $11.95
Condiments: bean sprouts (broken, brownish), Thai basil, lime, jalapeño

888

The broth was strong on aromatics but missing the beefy smell. It certainly looked appealing, but most of the beef was sliced way too thick, resulting in overt chewiness, making the eating too difficult. Like so many other places, the broth was simply not hot. We felt it had an off-taste, almost venturing into a category we called “tangy,” which is not something  you want in your pho. We did, however, fall hard for their bun bo hue - a spicy soup with different noodles and garnishes – and it made me think we need to do a #ChicagoBunBoHueCrawl next time around.

 

#21
Simply It
2269 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-248-0884
Price: $9.95
Condiments: bean sprouts, Thai basil, limes, cilantro (one of few to do this), jalapeño; yin-yang dish on the side

simply-it

Jammed with meatball, tripe, brisket and eye of round, the bowl looked promising, topped with a smattering of scallion, white onion and black pepper. I remembered this place came in as an honorable mention when I picked my Top 5 two years ago, and recalled the chef/owner used to work at Pasteur. As we hovered over the bowl, we noticed two things: a beefy aroma with good aromatics (certainly clove) and some steam (not enough, mind you, but at least it was steaming). Things were looking up, until we tasted the beef. All of them were sadly overcooked to the point of being grainy and chewy. Meatballs fared better, but we suspected this was because they were all made the day before (we were the first guests in the door the day we visited, and the space was chilly and dark).

 

#20
Fuh
2218 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-270-4418
Price: $8.95 + $3.98 for all meats that would be in pho dac biet = $12.93
Condiments: fast-casual style (you choose) but they have everything except culantro

fuh

This fast casual concept (think Chipotle for Vietnamese bowls) resulted in a bowl almost absent of smell, since it took so long to go from placing order, watching them add items, then paying at the counter, then bringing to our table. The broth was pretty cloudy but neats were nicely assembled. They use a slightly wider noodle since some bowls are are assembled dry (without broth). The meats were absolutely delicious. Very tender eye of round (you can see in the pic the small areas that haven’t touched the broth are still raw), thick but excellent smokey, oven-roasted brisket; meatballs were a tad smokey too, but had great texture. The broth tasted slightly sweeter, and definitely lighter, more like a chicken noodle soup stock than a hearty, beefy one. We also did a Facebook Live broadcast from here:

 

#19
Tank Noodle
4953 N. Broadway; 773-878-2253
Price: $12.95
Condiments: Thai basil, big limes, bean sprouts, jalapeño

tank

Tank is perennially one of the most popular spots in Uptown, mainly due to location. It hugs the corner of Broadway and Argyle, which has amazing foot traffic and two giant banks of windows. When you look inside, however, you tend to see more white faces than those of Vietnamese customers, and I can’t help but think this is a sign they play to the masses (also, they have next to the most expensive bowl of pho in town, which most Vietnamese – including my co-writer, Paul Nguyen – tend to balk at). In terms of initial aroma, there isn’t much. The extremely dark broth does contain very good cuts of eye of round, placed into the bowl raw, just before being covered in warm broth, but while much of the meat is juicy and pleasant, including some notable meatballs, the broth sinks it: we found it dull on both the beefy and aromatic fronts. Was there fish sauce inside? We couldn’t tell. Service is friendly and fast, but for this price, there is too much competition.

 

#18
Le Colonial
937 N. Rush St.; 312-255-0088
Price: $8
Condiments: A jalapeño slice & bean sprouts (both in the bowl); side of “yin-yang” and tiny piece of lime

le-colonial

We debated whether to even include Le Colonial, since it’s really designed more for tourists taking a break from their power shopping in and around Oak Street, looking for something a little more interesting than giant chopped salads at Barney’s. But to have ignored the upscale, French-Vietnamese menu would have certainly exposed us to criticism. The bowl itself is a bit smaller than average, although it was easily a full meal for me. While it wasn’t necessarily steaming, the temperature was plenty hot as I sipped the first few spoonfuls. It’s got a pleasant whiff of aromatics; the top is rife with chopped scallions and white onions, dominated by three gorgeous, tender slices of tenderloin, as soft and meaty as a filet mignon at Gene & Georgetti’s. There’s no meatball, eye of round or brisket; certainly no tripe or tendon. It’s a gateway bowl for the masses, and yet, I stand by the ranking – ahead of Tank and 888 – since it delivers on aroma, temperature and taste. I’d leave the jalapeño out of the bowl, however, as it turned the pho into something a tad too spicy by the end.

 

#17
Little Vietnam
1132 W. Bryn Mawr; 773-944-0999
Price: $9
Condiments: Thai basil, bean sprouts, limes, jalapeños

little-vietnam

This bowl was certainly beefy, and even though it was a little light on aromatics, it was very well-balanced. Served in what looked like a ramen bowl (only one other restaurant in our survey used a bowl this shape), the temperature was closer to hot than most and it was crowned with a staggering amount of black pepper, onions and scallions. There was no tendon or tripe, and even though we thought the broth fared better than most, the beef was almost universally overcooked and the meatballs didn’t do themselves any favors – they had a slightly funky taste.

 

#16
Pho Lily
5100 N. Broadway; 773-754-8057
Price: $9.25
Condiments: bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeño, lime

pho-lily

No doubt in my mind this bowl should be in the top 10, if not the top 5. It all boils down to serving temperature. Like so many other places in Chicago, mama didn’t teach ‘em how to serve a hot bowl of soup. The aroma was absolutely divine, and the amount of scattered onions and chopped scallions was just enough to allow for flavor enhancement, without subsuming the beef. That beef! Fantastic brisket, oh-so-tender; juicy eye of round (just look at that picture, it’s still fairly raw, a result of the broth not hot enough) and the meatballs would have been just as good buried beneath marinara housed in a hoagie roll. It seems trifling, our obsession with temperature, but it’s clearly a universal problem in Chicago. Had the kitchen just removed some of the broth from the main stock pot, and heated it up independently before pouring over the bowl, who knows…

 

#15
Pho #1
5914 W. Lawrence Ave.; 773-657-3747
Price: $10.95
Condiments: culantro, jalapeño, limes; bean sprouts and Thai basil seemed a little less-fresh

pho-1

Funny to find this place in a strip mall in the heart of the Polish community on the city’s Northwest Side. Not all that hot when presented to the table (there was actually no steam), but the aroma was certainly beefy and had a nice balance of spice/aromatics. Presentation was nice with plenty of fat droplets across surface of broth (which was tasty and well-balanced) although they go heavy on the long, white strands of onions, black pepper and scallions. Brisket and meatballs were solid but eye of round well below average; tripe was extremely tender.

 

#14
Sunset Pho Caffe
5726 N. Western Ave.; 773-275-2327
Price: $10.50
Condiments: culantro, bean sprouts, lime, jalapeño, Thai basil

sunset-pho-caffe

If you get confused thinking you’ve stepped into a European bar, that’s because the husband (Croatian) and his wife (Vietnamese) manage to straddle both worlds. The soccer fans watch TV and drink their imported beers up at the bar, while curious customers try the Vietnamese home-cooked dishes in back. The bowl is certainly beefy, but we felt it could use more aromatics. Served in a ramen bowl, it could definitely be hotter and perhaps a bit more generous with meat for the price. Eye of round pieces were clumped together – the result of a lazy cook who didn’t want to gently lay each slice over the cooked noodles, so they would cook independently when hit by broth – and there was no tendon. Top garnish of white onions, scallions and black pepper were almost generous to a fault. The broth was tasty and well-balanced, but not remarkable. Meatballs were very good, as was the tender tripe.

 

#13
Pho Xe Lua
1021 W. Argyle St.; 773-275-7512
Price: $10 ($13 with oxtail)
Condiments: culantro, jalapeño, Thai basil, a lime wedge (also jars of preserved jalapeño, chili sauce on table)

pho-xe-lua

The broth here was blessedly hot, though slightly cloudy; white onions, scallion and cilantro swim around the beef, most of which is chewy but tasty. Seems like they sliced brisket against the grain to render it more tender than most.

 

#12
King Pho
5414 W. Devon Ave.; 773-312-3995
Price: $8.95 and $9.95 (+$2 for meatballs)
Condiments: bean sprouts, limes, Thai basil, jalapeño

king-pho

Who knew there was a pho joint in Edgebrook? When I heard Devon Ave., I immediately thought Indian food of course. But this is pretty far west from Rogers Park. It’s part of a big Asian menu in a soaring space, but the broth had a nice, beefy smell and was served steaming, but still not exceptional. While lacking the aromatics we craved and hoped for, it did have a beefy-richness, bordering on fatty, that added flavor. Meats were thinly-sliced, but the eye of round was clumped-up, again, someone in kitchen not taking the time to lay out the slices so they cook independent of each other and cook evenly. The tendon was like butta – completely soft, having given up its tension in the cooking process. Two side notes: the music was not only too loud, but completely annoying, and the banh xeo (crispy crepe) was quite good. Very crisp and served with lots of herbs.

6 Comments

  1. Victor

    January 4, 2017 at 9:27 am

    King Pho on Devon is in Edgebrook not Edgewater as typed.

    • Steve Dolinsky

      January 4, 2017 at 11:02 am

      Fixed. Thanks!

  2. JB

    January 4, 2017 at 3:25 pm

    A few friends and I have visited a lot of Vietnamese restaurants in search of the “best” pho available, so I am greatly interested in your results! A few questions.

    Did the first few restaurants visited yield particularly wild or extreme results? Did the later restaurants all tend to jumble together from palate fatigue? I would be really interested to look at your rankings and weightings – just because I am interested to see how you and your colleagues results varied from restaurant to restaurant and against one another.

    Did you visit the restaurants just once, or did you visit them multiple times, and at different times in the day? For example – I have gone to Tank more times that I can count as they have a huge non-pho menu, and I’ve noticed that their broth actually changes in flavor throughout the day – I find it way better in the morning than in the evening. I can’t say I’ve done a double blind type study (but neither have you I think), but that’s just my observation from my experience. Obviously pho is supposed to be fairly consistent (and in the food business, consistency is quite important), so it’s fair to penalize them for a bad day. I wonder if you published your results, how they would rank throughout the day.

    I have read some other similar style food “rankings” – did you ever think you would need a “standard” or something against which to calibrate your rankings? For example, scoring 1 – 5 is arbitrary, so what constitutes a 5 vs a 1, or a 4 or 2? I guess it’s hard to find the most average “pho” when you don’t have any data to begin with, but I was wondering if you and Paul ever considered just picking one and using it as a barometer for your ratings.

    I am looking forward to reading more!

    • Steve Dolinsky

      January 4, 2017 at 5:54 pm

      Thanks for the great questions. There didn’t seem to be wild or extreme results at either the first few or the final few places visited. We only hit – at maximum – four in one day. We only visited each place once, and the time visited varied from 11 am – 5 pm, but generally in the middle of the day, and never at night. We didn’t select a barometer or “standard” pho, we simply scored each bowl as we ate.

    • Paul Nguyen

      January 4, 2017 at 9:36 pm

      Hi JB. A few additional thoughts to add on to what Steve said:

      1) Just as you said, a restaurant should be delivering food consistently so we just arrived unannounced and scored based on what was presented on the spot.

      2) Tasting fatigue was not an issue on any given day or across days. To evidence this, the last place we visited on a given day might very well have been the best pho we had that day and some later restaurants we tried later on in our pho crawl ended up placing higher in the rankings.

      3) In case you didn’t get a chance to see it yet, please see the post from yesterday explaining our methodology. To recap, we did have a list of criteria for each score so that it wouldn’t be arbitrary scoring and we did also go back and review scoring across all the restaurants and across all the days, making few and small adjustments where necessary to ensure fairness and consistency.

  3. Derrick Tung

    January 5, 2017 at 1:27 pm

    I’ve been waiting and wondering about this list for awhile, ever since we talked about it a few weeks back.

    Shame about Pho Lily… I have had it, and it was a great bowl, and if memory serves me correctly, it was actually steaming hot when it came out. Perhaps I was lucky, but much like any place, consistency is key (and tough to achieve at times). Looking forward to seeing your top pho rankings tomorrow!

    And to Paul – very nice statistical analysis! Given my public health background and love of numbers, it’s always interesting to read how the ratings were ultimately calculated. Thanks for sharing!

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